Thursday, August 3, 2006

Atlantic voyage - part two

First sight of land after crossing the Atlantic - Northern Ireland in the early morning.


A few hours later, Liverpool seen from the mouth of the Mersey. The city where I learned much of my trade as a young reporter. Long ago, on a foggy morning down by the docks in the far distance, I found a body, a minor and sad scoop.

In the very centre, you can see the bulk of the Anglican cathedral, largest in the United Kingdom, fifth largest in the world. In my day, the bishop had once been a top-ranked cricket player for England.


The Eilbek squeezes through a lock into Liverpool's container terminal. It's almost as tight as it looks.


After tying up, time for a barbeque on the Eilbek's aft deck.


Britain was enduring a serious heatwave and the Liverpool I remembered as often grey and damp was parched. There were watering restrictions in parts of the UK and temperatures were close to breaking records. Antwerp was sweltering.


Globalization at work. Tractors for Canada being loaded in Antwerp. Didn't we once make tractors?


In Antwerp, I found memorials to the Canadians who fought across the Scheldt - with more than 6,000 casualties - in the autumn of 1944. Their action preserved intact most of the harbour's facilities and allowed Allied ships to start unloading vital supplies for the final phase of the European war. One memorial mentioned the CO of the Royal Hamilton Light Infantry who I interviewed for a documentary some years ago.


As my uncle had been with the First Canadian Army, I felt a touch emotional standing by the river, wondering what it was all like when he came through.


Heading home. Not quite cruise ship conditions (note oxygen cylinders!), but quite manageable. On the eastbound voyage, I'd had the vessel more or less to myself, but, returning, had some very pleasant British, French and German companions.


After dinner the captain and chief engineer relax at the stern.


The first day back at sea was calm, but, as the chart below indicates, things were about to change once we were past the northern tip of Scotland.




Atlantic storm. I've spent a fair amount of time at sea and this was, by far, the worst thirty-six or so hours I've ever experienced. The constant jarring, unexpected jerks, rolling, crashing of dislodged objects, vibration and continual shuddering of the propeller were not only physically, but mentally, exhausting. You know it's bad when even reading becomes an effort. I had to hold onto the mattress to stay in my berth and, as for the toilet, that's definitely not for this blog.


The St. Lawrence is not just beautiful - on this occasion it was also blessedly calm.


Back in Montreal. 6661 nautical miles round trip. Great time.

Wednesday, August 2, 2006

Atlantic voyage - part one


I returned home Monday after a three week, round trip voyage from Montreal to Liverpool and Antwerp - 6661 nautical miles. Took a small, German flagged container ship - the Eilbek - named for a Hamburg neighbourhood.

Although not on the scale of my 'around the world under the capes' of a few years ago, the trip allowed me to see how ships are changing. The Eilbek was built last year and designed for the Baltic 'feeder' service. That is, she would normally carry containers to a main 'hub' port, where they are loaded on much larger ships for intercontinental transport. However, there was no business in the Baltic and, since she is ice strengthened, she was shifted to the Canada-Europe run. She carries all the latest electronic gear and the bridge has more than a passing resemblance to an aircraft cockpit. There was a cadet on board who'll not learn how to use a sextant and, soon, even paper charts will phased out.

The Eilbek has German and East European officers, and Filipino ratings, and all were most welcoming. My cabin was cozy, the food good, substantial German fare of the meat and potatoes variety and wine duty-free with a decent bottle costing about six dollars, so I was quite content.

I decided to go all the way without once resorting to an airplane and so took the train to Montreal. I also thought (and I assure you that I can afford a taxi!) that it would be fun to go to Europe or, more accurately, Union Station in Toronto by using the subway near my condo. So, here, on lovely summer morning are my bags, ready for a transatlantic voyage.


Somewhere, beyond all those containers at the Montreal dockside, is my ship.


Here's the Eilbek, taken in Liverpool not Montreal. Container terminals aren't the easiest (or safest) places to take pictures and it's sometimes difficult to get a decent perspective.


This is the 'accommodation', housing bridge, cabins, lounges, dining areas, galley, ship's office and so on. No elevator, so a good walk up and down.


To give a better idea, below is a company photo showing one of the Eilbek's sister ships in the St. Lawrence during the winter.


Here we are on the St. Lawrence - quite lovely in places - showing traffic heading upriver just above Quebec City. Having left Montreal about 0800, we're getting towards the end of the first day.


In the Gulf of St. Lawrence we saw lots of whales and, north of Newfoundland, a number of icebergs. Below is the captain on the bridge. Out the window on his left you can just see one sizable berg. Clicking on the picture gives a better idea. Summer sees the most icebergs on the route the Eilbek takes. I was amused to note that on one of the navigation charts an officer had inked in where the Titanic went down.


This was a splendid berg with, as you can see, a mysterious blue strip.


Clicking on this shot will give you a better idea.


I rather like this picture of the first mate and chief engineer on the starboard side's narrow walkway. This allowed for an exhilarating stroll to and from the bow, although it wouldn't be such fun in bad weather as it's quite close to the water. Passengers were welcome when conditions were fine, but otherwise only crew.


Even on a small ship the canyons of containers are impressive.

Most of the crew's time is spent battling salt and rust.




Next stop, Europe.